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Tianlong Tunpu, 72 kilometers west of Guiyang, is the best-preserved Ming village in all of China.
History
In 1381, Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang, first emperor of the Ming dynasty, sent a massive army of 300,000 soldiers to conquer Yunnan and then to station there, thereby expanding his territory and ensuring a strong border with the Tartar lands to the west. Emperor Zhu then ordered that Han Chinese settle in Yunnan and Guizhou, spurring a mass migration. Hundreds of military forts were built from Hunan to Yunnan to aid and protect the settlers.
Tianlong Tunpu sprouted up next to one of these forts (Tunpu means, 鈥減lace to station troops鈥?in Chinese.); the military elements in its design are readily apparent. With high walls and narrow lanes, the village is a labyrinth for any first-time visitor, offering residents a distinct advantage in any in-village fighting.
Many of the houses of Tianlong Tunpu, with their fancy entryways, carved stonewalls, and elaborate backyards resemble Ming houses found near the lower Yangtze River, reminding visitors of the faraway hometowns of the first Tianlong Tunpu residents.
Never mind the time-warp affect of seeing such well-preserved Ming buildings, the women of Tianlong Tunpu still wear the light green and blue traditional dress of the village, which has changed little in 600 years. Many also sport phoenix-style hair designs passed down from dynastic times.
Activities
Dixi or 鈥渙pera played on earth鈥?is the forebear of many other forms of Chinese opera, including Peking opera. Originally a sacrificial ceremony performed by members of the Ming army to entertain the gods and ask for victory in battle, Dixi spread among the populace to become a form of popular entertainment. In the past Dixi was only performed during agricultural events, but in order to meet tourist demand, it is now performed everyday in the local theater of Tianlong Tunpu (ticket price: less than USD 2). So sit down in this ancient village, watching ancient stories being told, and let your imagination run wild.
Dining
Wouldn't a grand meal be the perfect close to a day of walking around Tianlong Tunpu? At dinnertime the village recreates a victory banquet similar to the kind Ming soldiers enjoyed upon returning victorious from the battlefield. Banquet tables are arranged on the open ground of a large courtyard and visitors and residents (dressed as Ming soldiers) re-enact a scene straight out of the Outlaws of the Marsh. Steaming bowls of pig's feet and overflowing bowls of rice wine land on the tables and female servers command the guests to eat and drink, more and more. (Text by Chu Daye)
Transportation
Take a train to Guiyang. (For details on getting to Guiyang by train see Guiyang Transportation.) From there take one of the many private minibuses (faster and cheaper than the state-owned ones) that run between most Guiyang bus stops and Huangguoshu every fifteen minutes. They all make a stop at Tianlong Tunpu. The trip from Guiyang to Tianlong Tupa will take about three hours and cost RMB 15 / ticket.
Recommended Itinerary
1. Arrive at Tianlong Tunpu in the morning.
2. Watch a Dixi performance (only about ten to fifteen minutes long).
3. Walk around the ancient village, admiring the 500-year-old houses.
4. Have lunch at a village restaurant or snack bar, or simply with a Tianlong Tunpu family (RMB 15-20 / person).
5. Climb Tiantai Mountain in the afternoon. It affords a bird's eye view of the village and clearly reveals its unique defenses.
6. Return to Guiyang or head to Huangguoshu.
Tips
1. Tianlong Tunpu doesn't have star-rated hotels, so if you're picking about your lodgings it's best to stay in Guiyang.
2. Dixi masks are available in the village and make great souvenirs. (Text by Chu Daye)
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